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Sunday, December 1, 2013

Oh Ye Of Little Taste



In its desperate moves to make every meal taste like overly sweetened oat meal,corporate America has created two generations of Americans who have no idea what a ham, a real ham, tastes like. To help place this crisis in abeyance, or at least to put my finger in the dike, I offer the following primer on real ham or, as it is scientifically known, authenicus hoggus hind leggus.

First one should examine packaging and shape. Does the ham that you are considering eating come in a very small square package? Only eat said "ham" if you come from a region of the nation that raises very small square hogs. Can you squeeze the ham with little effort? Only eat said ham if you are Superman.

Does the wrapper say "sugar cured"? Only eat said ham if your life is so hectic that you must combine your entree and desert into one dish. Does it have  pineapple on it? Only eat said ham if one must be polite to one's host who has just placed a garland of flowers  around your neck and handed you your grass skirt to wear for the night's festivities.

Real ham comes in a cloth bag. It is dark brown on the outside and coated with a thin layer of pepper. It should have a touch of mold on it if properly cured. The best way to know the quality of a ham without examining it is to punch it with one's fist as hard a possible. A real ham is hard and dry. That is why one soaks it for a day or two before cooking it.

If such a blow causes water to fly every where out of the "ham" feed said ham to a dog that you dislike. If the blow bruises and even bloodies one's hand a bit, the ham is fine for everyday eating. If the blow causes compound and complex fractures to one's hand, one has selected a ham properly aged and cured. Rush it quickly to the checkout counter before the ambulance arrives to take you to the ER. Do not accept the offer of  anyone posing as a Good Samaritan to carry your ham to the checkout line for you. Such people often hover around the meat section waiting for someone to properly fist test the ham and then use their two unbroken hands to spirit the ham out of the store.

When the preacher comes to visit you in the hospital and says a prayer for your hand invite him over for dinner after the Sunday service.

Let him know that you will be serving real ham. Everyone will benenfit. He will likely skip the long hymn and will cut his sermon time in half if he knows that thin sliced, real ham, is waiting for him at your house.

If you let him know that you have a bushel of raw oysters that you just picked up from the boats he will likely cancel services that Sunday in order to get there in time to shuck out a few dozen of them for himself.

And let all the people say"Amen."




3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Down home we call it "Lockjaw ham" because it is so salty...

Me, I like A ham you can pick up and hit a burglar with, and do some damage. -Lloyd

Anonymous said...

Can such ham still be bought in any store? Seems like another one of those things that if you don't make it at home, you will never get to experience it.

I know you are already working on this, Steve, with your Farm project, but I hope anyone and everyone who has knowledge of the old ways will WRITE THINGS DOWN, detailed instructions, preferably with photo illustrations or (better yet) video. Seriously.

This kind of knowledge is real "living history" and it needs to be preserved. We owe it to the ancestors who figured these things out over generations of trial and error, and we owe it to future generations who may need this knowledge again for practical reasons. Let's not leave them with blank pages and a need to start over from scratch with the learning.

Deb in CA

Anonymous said...

Deb,

Back a couple of years ago, Steve's great uncle Gwaltney sat with me and told me how to go about making good ham. (which I pretty much knew, except for the classic way of aging) sadly, it is very difficult to actually get the old product...the hogs are wrong. unless you raise them yourself.

But..all is not lost. Edwards hams from up in Surry are pretty good...particularly the Surryano ham..
Give them a call.
http://www.edwardsvaham.com/

Lloyd